The Iconic Mountain
Matterhorn Ascent
Matterhorn from Lyskam North Face
Summit Matterhorn

Summit Matterhorn, The Matterhorn Trip, 6 Days, Climb, The Alps

From: £4,250

 

 

Climb The Matterhorn a Classic Peak with Centuries of History. A Long & Technical Route. The Matterhorn Trip is With Cable Car Access & High-Class Mountain Huts.

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All about the Summit Matterhorn, The Matterhorn Trip, 6 Days, Climb, The Alps.

Climb The Matterhorn

The Matterhorn is undeniably the most magnificent and well known peak in the Alps. Its bold pyramidal shape evokes emotions of wonderment and even fear in those who view it for the first time as its four distinct faces stand omnipotent and menacing over the green meadows below. Separated by sharp ridges, the four faces are orientated to the four points of the compass, the northern aspects within Switzerland while the southern side lies in Italy.

We ascend via the Hörnli Ridge that separates the North and East faces via a long and technical route requiring the utmost attention from climbers. The steep rock ridge is very involving and a successful attempt requires a rapid rate of ascent and full concentration by a fit party. The steep North and East faces drop away spectacularly on either side and the sense of exposure is dramatic.

With its formidable history and the magnificent grandeur of its architecture, the Hörnli Ridge in Climb the Matterhorn trip is a climb that is definitely worth aspiring to.

Your Health

Our registration form requests that you advise us of any medical problems you may have and if you are on any medication. Any information you supply will be treated as confidential.

Level of Experience Required

To climb the Matterhorn you need to be fit, have strong physical and mental stamina and be capable of strenuous exercise for several days duration. Prospective climbers must be competent in rock and alpine climbing practices and be aware that your ability to succeed will be determined more by your current condition and capability, than previous ascents you may have made in the past. You will need to be proficient in snow/ice techniques and cramponing.

In order to get up this long route, prospective climbers must be confident in rock climbing in alpine boots to grade US 5.7/ AUS 15/ UK HS and be capable of moving at a steady pace for extended periods in technical terrain on snow and rock. It is imperative you have a high degree of cardiovascular fitness to cope with the strains of the climb and the altitude.

In your build-up to the climb it would be appropriate to be rock climbing regularly as well as training on hills for overall fitness. Your climbing history will include ascents of long and technical multi-pitch alpine routes, and you will be an active rock climber, current with use of rope skills and snow and ice climbing techniques.

Even climbing at the moderate altitudes in Europe has a definite physical effect on people. Most climbers notice a lower performance rate than normal. Summit day is physically demanding and a dedicated training programme is essential to enhance your chance of success. It is preferable to spend a few days at altitude prior to your scheduled climb to assist with your acclimatisation. Climbers regularly attend our Pre-Course & Acclimatisation Programme in Chamonix prior to partaking in the ascent.

Preparing for Your Trip

To make the most of your climbing experience you must train in the months leading up to your trip. By adopting a programme of running, cycling and/or hill walking you will greatly increase your chance of success on this peak. Build up your training until you are able to hike on consecutive days for at least 8hrs whilst carrying a 10kg / 22lbs pack, incorporating the elevation gain of over 1200m/4000ft which is required on summit day. A regularly rock climbing programme is also essential. Your guide will be attuned to your fitness levels and will regulate the pace accordingly; however it is essential that you arrive physically prepared to succeed on this mountain.

Insurance

We strongly recommend that you take out trip cancellation and travel insurance to protect yourself in case of injury or mishap prior to/or whilst on our trips.

While our focus is on safety and our track record supports this, the mountains do have hazards and there is the potential for mishap. If you were injured whilst on the trip there is a very efficient rescue service nearby. We also advise getting trip cancellation insurance to cover you should you be forced to cancel your participation prior to the trip starting.

The tour package inclusions and exclusions at a glance
What is included in this tour?Items that are included in the cost of tour price.
  • Meals (except for dinners on hotel nights and extra drinks/meals in huts)
  • Lodging for 7 nights
  • Lifts
  • Hut fees
  • Transport ex Chamonix or Zermatt
Whats not included in this tour.Items that are not included in the cost of tour price.
  • Any costs that are additional to the program that come about due to changes to program caused by weather or organisational changes. (Any changes will generally be due to factors outside our control such as weather, lift failure (etc) and actioned only after you have been consulted by your guide)
  • Personal mountaineering clothing and equipment as per lists supplied
  • Evening meals during hotel nights
  • Extra additional meals or snacks/drinks purchased from huts/hotel
  • Insurance
  • Transport to and from Chamonix or  Zermatt (although we can arrange it for you)
  • Gratuity
  1. Details, Ex Chamonix Details, Ex Chamonix

    Your guide will meet with you on the evening of your arrival in Chamonix (France) for equipment check and a briefing about the upcoming program and anticipated weather conditions. You will start the training the following morning and take a lift to a high mountain region close to Chamonix where you will make ascents of appropriate training routes on the Aguille de I’Index. This is the time where you get to practice climbing skills and start to acclimatise for the ascent of the Eiger in the final days of the program.

    The following day you will ascend to the Aguille du Midi to climb the Arête des Cosmiques (AD, 3,800m) which is a very enjoyable climb on mixed snow and rock. In addition to being a really good day out in the mountains, this will help to consolidate your acclimatisation and to get some good climbing under your belt to get you well prepared for the upcoming ascents. Once training has been completed you will travel with your guide to Switzerland and ascend to the Hörnli Hut on the lower part of the Matterhorn’s Hörnli ridge to prepare for the ascent the following morning.

    First and foremost, weather and conditions have to be favourable for a safe ascent of this serious peak. Although success cannot be guaranteed, we have developed our approach to give you a serious chance of attaining an ascent of this classic route.

    The ascent is based entirely on a 1:1 guiding ratio. While some operators will clump you together with large groups during the early acclimatisation phase we feel there is much to be gained on warm-up routes that get you prepared for the upcoming rigours and technical challenges that you will face.

    We program the trip over 6 days / 7 nights to include the necessary period of acclimatisation before making an ascent at this altitude.  We consider it vital that you work closely with your guide throughout the week to develop the appropriate level of communication and trust to collectively make the ascent as a partnership of two people on a rope. Extra days can be added to the programme for additional acclimatisation and preparation days by signing up for our 2 day Europe Pre-Course and Acclimatisation Programme.

  2. Matterhorn, Ex Zermatt Matterhorn, Ex Zermatt

    Arrive Zermatt. Meet guide in evening for a briefing. Note: Due to guide commitments, in some instances, the guide will meet you the morning of Day 1. Hotel night.

    Day 1
    Travel up the Gornergrat Railway for some technical rock training on the Rifflehorn 2,927m. Hotel night.

    Day 2
    Cable Car to Klein Matterhorn. Climb Pollux by Southwest Ridge (4,092m). Stay Val d’Ayas Guides Hut.

    Day 3
    Climb East Ridge of Breithorn (4,164m). Descend by normal route to Klein Matterhorn and cable car to Zermatt. Hotel night.

    Day 4
    Cable Car to Schwarzsee and walk to Hörnli Hut.

    Day 5
    Summit Day. Descend back to Hörnli Hut and continue down to the Schwarzsee hotel.

    Day 6
    Depart Schwarzsee and descend to Zermatt. Possible rock climbing in the afternoon. Overnight in Zermatt Hotel.

    Day 7
    Depart Zermatt after breakfast.

  3. Details, Ex Zermatt Details, Ex Zermatt

    Your guide will meet with you on the evening of your arrival in Zermatt (Switzerland) for equipment check and a briefing about the upcoming program and anticipated weather conditions. You will start the training the following morning and take a lift to a high mountain region close to Zermatt where you will make ascents of interesting and challenging training routes. This is the time where you get to practice climbing skills and become acclimatised for the ascent of the Matterhorn in the final days of the program.

    We have purposely included some classic ascents in your training program, not only to help you focus on the skills for the climb ahead but also to enable you to get some other fantastic routes under your belt as well!

    We ascend to the Hörnli hut on the lower part of the Matterhorn’s Hörnli ridge to prepare for the ascent the following morning.

    First and foremost, weather and conditions have to be favourable for a safe ascent of this serious peak. Although success cannot be guaranteed, we have developed our approach to give you a serious chance of attaining an ascent of this classic route.

    The ascent is based entirely on a 1:1 guiding ratio. While some operators will clump you together with large groups during the early acclimatisation phase we feel there is much to be gained on warm-up routes that get you prepared for the upcoming rigours and technical challenges that you will face.

    We program the trip over 6 days / 7 nights to include the necessary period of acclimatisation before making an ascent at this altitude.  We consider it vital that you work closely with your guide throughout the week to develop the appropriate level of communication and trust to collectively make the ascent as a partnership of two people on a rope. Extra days can be added to the programme for additional acclimatisation and preparation days by signing up for our 2 Day Europe Pre-Course & Acclimatisation Programme.

  4. About The Climb About The Climb

    An ascent of the Matterhorn is a superb summit demanding fitness, determination and a level of competence on both rock and ice.

    The summit day will start well before dawn, around 4am, and you will be encouraged by your guide to move consistently to ensure you reach the summit in a reasonable timeframe. Depending on conditions the ascent will take between 4-6 hours and an equal length of time to descend.

    Whilst much of the rock on the Hörnli Ridge is good, the first part of the route follows the East face, slightly to the left of the ridge and here the rock is slabby and loose.

    Though it looks narrow from a distance, the Hörnli Ridge is broad and featured when climbing. There are many scrambling sections as well as some steep climbing pitches. The last 200 meters need crampons and axe.  At 1040m of climbing it is a long and tiring day and will take at least as long to descend as to climb.

    Stopping on the descent at the Hörnli hut for a tea break, we continue down to the more comfortable hotel at Schwarzsee.

    If you arrive well prepared you will really enjoy this climb for its intensity without encountering extreme terrain.